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Feeding;                                 americanchinchillarabbits.com
  There are a large amount of rabbit feeds out there to choose from but the most important thing is that you feed regularly… meaning that your rabbits should have what they need in protein, roughage (hay) and water according to their growth or age as well as reproductive needs.
  Make sure the feeder is large enough for the head of your rabbits to access the feed or they will pull or scratch  the feed out of the feeder in an effort to get it and you will find it on the ground. Water crocks should not be used with young kits as they may drown. Several water bottles at head height are best for bunnies...1 bottle per 2 bunnies...and one placed higher for the Doe. 

Housing;                               americanchinchillarabbits.com

 All wire cages are best but must be kept under cover attached to metal or wooden legs...can be hung from roof but must be stabilized so they don't swing. Cages should be no less than 30" x 36"...longer is better so long as you can reach all corners of the cage. "Baby saver" wire ( .5" x 1") which is woven closer on the lower portion of the wire keeps kits born on the wire from crawling  through. This wire is not always available at stores so in an emergency you can attach floor wire up the sides. If they are born on the wire floor, place them in the nest box and cover with Does fur. Do not discard this fur as this is how the Doe knows the box is hers and the kits know where to return should they get pulled out while on a tit. I always keep the floor covered with straw or hay built up the cage sides and in front of the nest box so the kits can climb back in. Make sure to count your kits every day as some will crawl under the hay you have placed on the floor so look under the cage for little feet and count before you discard soiled hay...many a live kit has been thrown out for the lack of counting! 


Breeding;                             americanchinchillarabbits.com
  It is always a good idea to follow the advice of experienced breeders no matter what your ideas are. Read as much regarding rabbit breeding and care as possible as there are many opinions some based upon sound experience and some not. Then apply what you know with what works best for you and your rabbitry. You will learn more as you go. 
  To be sure the Doe’s mind is up to her body you should not breed before eight months of age. Some Does mature at six months of age and if you are sure she is mature (10 lbs) she can be bred.  It is hard for novice  breeders to know when a Doe is well enough developed and mentally stable, therefore it is better to advocate breeding at eight months for the first time. Never breed under the age of six months of age. Breeding  a Doe too early will result in ruining the Doe and  she will produce weak kits.                americanchinchillarabbits.com
  There ’s no breeding season as rabbits will breed year round provided they have at least twelve hours of day light true or artificial, (grow lights for your plants or uv aquarium lights) and are properly nourished. They are receptive 14 out of 16 days. Most successful months are from February thru May. In the warmer regions rabbits should not be bred in June or July. Never breed a Doe that is thin or has a rough coat or otherwise in poor condition. If the Doe is in good flesh when her kits are weaned two weeks rest is enough and she can be re-bred.   americanchinchillarabbits.com
 You should not inbreed but selectively line breed which is selectively breeding from your best pedigrees…the best to the best. Be mindful that you can out cross to other lines from other breeders and  end up with more problems than you can deal with.. Out crossing does not mean better. However that said if you have a Doe with exceptional traits you want to retain and her brother or father has those same traits try a breeding but you may not get what you hope for.      Keep meticulous records so as not to destroy your breeding program. Never cross breed keep your stock pure!
Each adult rabbit should be housed separately. The Doe should be taken to the Buck for breeding. He will attempt to service her. If she is ready she will accept him. She may run from him a moment or two but if she attacks him or runs for more than 2-3 minutes remove her immediately. Try again daily until she accepts him or try another Buck. Some times this can go on for 2-3 weeks.  She may sense it will not be a good match… check her for health and diet issues. The object in nature is to produce strong healthy offspring and females in the animal world are the decision makers.
  When your Doe is successfully bred return her to the Buck four days later. If she refuses service it is an indication she is with young , although it is not a certainty.  Some Does will breed even though they are already bred. So when calculating due dates be sure she has a nest box and bedding a day or two before the earliest due date.  Gestation is 30-33 days although I have had them kindle 28-34 days. You will know when she is ready as she will move about with bedding in her mouth and pull out belly fur to cover the kits. Does that have not been bred have also shown this behavior which means they are ready to be bred.  Make sure to supply a sanitized nest  box she will fit in with a little room to spare so she doesn't stomp the kits as she gets in and out. Do not handle her for several days before as you can cause injury to the embryos. 
  Wean the bunnies at  6 -8 weeks and let them eat free choice for 21 hours a day so that their hoppers are empty 3 hours a day. Supply free choice quality hay. americanchinchillarabbits.com